An afternoon in Blaye - Exploring the Citadelle

Wandering through history...

It's the day after Christmas and all of us were feeling full from a Christmas eve dinner and another nice meal on Christmas day.  As usual our holiday meals were full of delicious oysters, smoked salmon, fois gras, along a delicious buche de Noel and of course plenty of wine.  So the next day, we needed to find a place walk around and burn off some of those calories.  For the girls, it was time to get outside and enjoy some fresh air.  We decided to head up to Blaye - a town on the East side of the Garonne about 45 minutes from our house.  There is a citadel there that was built in the 17th century and it's a great way to be outside, and enjoy some history at the same time.

The citadel of Blaye is a UNESCO heritage site and was designed by Vauban, an engineer who was commissioned by King Louis XIV to strengthened the existing fortifications to protect the city of Bordeaux.  Blaye is  located upstream on the estuary of the Garonne River and its location and geography of the land had historically made it the perfect place from which to protect the city of Bordeaux.  In the 17th century, the cannons at that time did not have sufficient range to cover the width of the river.  Vauban built two more forts - one on the island in the middle of the Garonne and the other on the Medoc side.  This design allowed the 3 forts to cross-fire and prevent enemies from sailing to Bordeaux.  

The citadelle was designed between 1685 and 1689 and became a walled city built around a parade ground, a monastery and several barracks.  Included inside this citadel are ruins of a 12th century castle, a 12th century gate and the Eguilette tower built in the 15th century.

Walking around today, these ruins and buildings are still evident and many have been converted into hotels, restaurants, boutiques and cafes.  It's a wonderful place to wander around and take in both the history of this fortress and the beautiful views of the Garonne River and the city of Blaye itself. 

Looking toward the walls at the Citadelle

Entering in at one of the gates

My middle daughter taking some photos

The ruins of the Castle

Great place to explore and run around!

The girls loved exploring and climbing around

View of the Garonne from the Citadelle

Looking up toward the mouth of the Garonne - toward the Atlantic Ocean

More of the Citadelle with the city of Blaye in the distance

Checking out her photos

Clouds & rain rolling through the river

The Citadelle sits up on a hill overlooking the river

Restaurant inside the fortress

Fun Boutique sign

Sun setting behind the convent building

End of the day - clouds and sun

Even though many of the shops were closed for the vacation, it was still a beautiful place to walk around and enjoy an afternoon.  The citadelle is Free and open to the public each day.  For a family activity, anytime during the year, this is a great place to go.  Hope everyone is enjoying their time off for the holidays and special with family.  

Bordeaux - The City at night during the Holidays

Enjoying the Lights and Festivities of the holidays

I love the holiday season- the music,the lights, the festivities. I always have - there is just something about that magical spirit in the Ari.  All those lights, people singing, being Merry - sharing traditions, enjoying holiday parties together.  December just seems extra special!One of the things that I love about Bordeaux is how beautiful the city is during the holidays.  Bordeaux itself and all the towns around - go all out in decorating with lights, banners, and swats of garland.  Even in our town centre of Pessac - the town square is all set for holiday activities and everyday there is Christmas music playing in the streets.  (As my oldest says as she walks out of school - "It's sort of nice to hear Christmas music coming over the speakers as she walks to her bus).

Last night, we decided to make a family night and head into the city - ice skating next to the Cathedral, walking around the city to enjoy the lights, and then finding Santa at the Christmas market.  (I was impressed that all three of my girls were willing to sit together with Santa for a photo!)  I guess you are never too old for some things!

it was a great evening - the photos speak for themselves!

Cathedral at Place Pey Berland

Ice Skating

Place Pey Berland - La Mairiee

Parents watching kids skate - Lots of people were out having a good time

My middle daughter skating

Yes, even the tree sparkled!

Loved this display!

The streets were aglow...

I'm thinking Visions of sugarplums dance in their heads!

Love these lights!!

Grand Theatre

Marche de Noel (Christmas market)

Lots of folk enjoying a nice evening out.

Chestnuts roasting....sort of an open fire

Le Pere Noel

We even found Frosty the Snowman!

Looking down Rue St. Catherine

So even though there's no snow....We can always pretend!

This week we are decorating the tree and finishing up the house.  Nana arrives Wednesday from the States to enjoy the holidays with us.  Lots of fun this season!  Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday Season!!

Expat Experiences - Carte de Sejour & US passports in France

Off to downtown Bordeaux.

 Off to do some paperwork...

This isn't going to be a long post...I just wanted to share a little observation about some differences that I find here in France around government/Carte de Sejour (long-term VISA) paperwork - how it's done here in France and how the US completes passports. Recently, we have had the luxury(?) of completing (or in process of) both!

At some point, when I'm really feeling motivated - I will share my experience of getting my first long-term visa before we moved here and then the continual paperwork that I still provide to have this thing renewed (now Carte de Sejour)- at this point yearly, but then will be 10 years.  (Please also note, my process is considered easier as I am married to a French citizen) But I won't go too far down that path right now.  That is another whole blog post in itself!!  I will just say for the sake of comparison that a few weeks ago, I spent a good part of several days - first trying to figure out exactly what documentation I needed for renewing my carte de sejour & then -  pulling together and copying all kinds of documents to renew it and finally figuring out exactly where I needed to hand this dossier in. (About 2" thick)  Last year I was able to do all of this at our local town police station - but of course we live in France - and these type of things constantly change.  Finally figured out that this year it had to be at the regional Prefecture in downtown Bordeaux.  I swear they want everything  - including the kitchen sick!! At this point, it's been handed in and now I wait (& wait - last year it was almost 2 months) to hear back from them for an appointment to continue this process! (Last year it was 3 appointments - one to get the initial temporary carte de sejour, a 2nd to renew it again as I waited for a medical appt. and a required 'Welcome to France" orientation to be scheduled and a final time to go back and pick up the official carte de sejour - once my medical and welcome orientation had been completed)

Let's shift now to the US process of doing passports.  This is the first time we have experienced this as expats.  Really the process is the same as it is in the States.  If you are an adult, you can mail in your passport, and appropriate documentation for renewal.  If you are getting a child passport, it has to be done in person - in the States we went to the post office.  Here in France, one has to go to the nearest US Consulate to do this.  We are lucky at this point - we have a US Consulate right here in Bordeaux.  (Although, as of January 2014 - the passport renewal process is streamlining, so it can only be done in Paris & Marseilles) - hence my push to get it done here in Bordeaux this month.

So given that last little bit of news & the fact that all of my girl's needed their passports renewed this Spring - we scurried to get them done here.  This is how it went...Email the US Consulate asking for an appointment -.  Getting an answer back in 48 hours with an appointment date & time (2 weeks from when I emailed) and links to documentation that we needed to bring.  Step one - follow link to fill out Passport renewal form on-line - easy enough and then print.  I did all three of these forms in about 20 minutes.  Step 2 - read list of required documentation (listed on same form) and copy those.  Copy passports for both my husband & myself. Step 3 - Have ID photos taken of each child - with clear instructions for photographer as to proper sizing for US passport. Found our local photo shop had no trouble with these instructions. Step 4 - Purchase overnight delivery envelope at post office - type of envelope clearly stated and pictured on website.

Chartron - near the US Consulate Office

This whole paperwork process was straightforward and clear.  It came time for the day of our appointment, so my husband and I took the girls off to the US Consulate office for our 1:30 appointment.  We arrived in plenty of time, even took the girls to lunch first.  We headed into the Office and waited for our turn.  A secretary came out about 1:35 pm and reviewed the paperwork with us - to make sure we were all set.  She then took the sheets/copies back into the office and told us to wait.  About 5 minutes later, we were called in and met directly with the US Consul of Bordeaux.  My husband and I pledged our oath that all the information on the forms was correct.  He reviewed the documentation, we all signed and he stamped.  We all chatted a little as we were doing each child and then we were done.  Passport applications will be mailed to processing agency and then returned to us in about a month. The whole appointment was less than 30 minutes in length.

The US Consul -Bordeaux and my youngest daughter

In summary - US system - clear, concise, straightforward and efficient.  French system of applying for my carte de sejour - convoluted, confusing and at this point - I know they have my dossier at the Prefecture as I have hand delivered it - but I have heard nothing else from them and it's been almost a month.  I think I will accept bets here that the US passports will arrive before I have my carte de sejour finalized!

Just making a comparison here and sometimes it's just a bit hard for my American brain to wrap my head around the French system....(let alone - find some clear instructions of the exact process!)

My oldest at lunch

Just a candid having lunch - middle daughter

Finally - my youngest enjoying her shrimp and avocado sandwich!

Thanksgiving 2013 & Creating New Traditions

Pumpkin Pie - One of 3, I made this week!

Thanksgiving in France - 

Celebrating as an Expat

The day of Thanksgiving is a very special day for me.  Yes, being an American this day has always been full of family, memories and lots of fun with cousins.  I grew up with Thanksgiving always being held at my parents house - filled with aunts, uncles and cousins.  The group changed over the years - as we all grew up and had our own families - but the tradition still remained.  My parents hosted Thanksgiving and my brothers and I would return home with our own families.  We use to joke about an adult table and a "kids" table.  For my girls, Thanksgiving memories in the States have always been a weekend full of cousins and activities and of course the big family feast.  Interesting enough, the children were all getting old enough to have their own "kids" table while adults enjoyed eating together. Family is very important to us and traditions have taken on a whole new dimension since moving to France. This weekend was bittersweet for that reason.  My girls often spoke this weekend of their cousins and how much fun they always had together those Thanksgiving weekends. How much they miss seeing them for this holiday. 

Thanksgiving is not a French holiday - it is truly only an American holiday symbolizing that First Thanksgiving so many years ago between the Pilgrims and the American Indians.  It is a holiday that is not really understood by many French in France.  They have heard of it but really don't know much about it or why it is celebrated.  One of the most special things that happened to me this year was I was invited by my youngest daughter's CP (1st grade) teacher to come in and share about Thanksgiving.  Now this activity excited me but was also daunting.  It marked the first time I was to do a presentation in French.  I have no problem speaking to groups in English - but French...that's another story. My French is proficient and fairly fluent but I of course, speak with an American accent.  I know also that my grammar or pronunciation of certain words may not be correct, but for the most part my friends here have always been encouraging and understanding.  But here was my chance to not only share about our very special American holiday but to get a bird's eye view of my daughter's classroom and classmates.

I decided to not only tell them the story of Thanksgiving and what it has come to mean for Americans present day but to also do a quick craft with the class.  One of the things that is nice about our school in France is that the children are also learning English.  I decided on a "Gratitude wreath" where the kids could choose words in English or French that represented the Thanksgiving Holiday.

The Multi-cultural Gratitude Wreath

Samples of some of the Student's wreaths

I was definitely a bit nervous as I spoke to the class.  I'm sure my French wasn't the greatest - but my daughter's teacher was a delight and helped me out when I needed it.  I kept things simple, but it was fun to give them a quick history lesson.  The teacher also checked in with the kids to make sure they understood the concept that I was sharing.  I shared the history, what it symbolizes today and our traditional foods for the meal.

The kids then generated words that related to this holiday. They of course gave French words, the teacher asked that we also include English words.  The kids then chose the words they wanted and wrote them on their wreath.  As they were finishing their wreaths, I served them some pumpkin pie.

Pumpkin pie is also not known to the French.  Yes, they have pumpkins, and various versions of squash similar to pumpkin - but to make it into a pie - that's a surprise.  Amazingly, most all the kids tried it and liked it.  One of my favorite moments was one student who came to me at the end and asked "Is it okay that I didn't like the pie?"  I answered "of course, it was okay that she didn't like it, and thanked her for trying it."  Her reply , "Well, I ate almost all of it!".  

Trying the pumpkin pie...

 After they finished their wreaths and the pie, one of the student teachers lead them in an English song that they had learned.  It was definitely adorable!

Singing their English song...I just love seeing all the French sayings on the walls & it's mostly in Cursive!

 So, that is how I spent my Thanksgiving day!  The kids went to school, my husband was at work (well, actually even out of town!) and I got to join my youngest at school for the last hour of the day.  I have to say - I did feel like I was missing out on something as my thoughts often wandered to what my family and friends would be doing back home in the States.  But I have to say - to be able to share about this special holiday and enjoy a great moment with my daughter's class was truly a Thanksgiving Day to remember!!

We just postponed our Thanksgiving meal until the weekend.  I spent most of Friday and Saturday cooking our favorites.  My middle daughter even helped me with making Nana's Apple Sausage Stuffing.  My oldest daughter made the Jello molds - choosing 2 different kinds.

My daughter's will be the 4th generation to make variations on this stuffing recipe.

Raspberry Jello

The giant Turkey...Yes, I think it was about 20 pounds!

The Master carver at work...

 We hosted some wonderful French friends who have now been able to join us for 2 years in a row.  It truly makes for a special tradition.  I updated a few recipes this year - choosing to make an Oven roasted sweet potatoes & pears dish (Thanks goes to my friend Zosia - over at zosia Cooks) along with a Green bean casserole. Other dishes were mashed potatoes, pureed butternut squash, Apple Sausage stuffing, cranberry sauce and of course, the Farm fresh turkey.  We served it buffet style as it gave people the opportunity to choose what they wanted. Due to space issues, we let the younger kids eat first and then the adults and the oldest girls sat down.

Starting to eat.

The table as we began to sit down

 We ended our meal with pumpkin and apple pies along with some fruit JELLO for those daring enough to try it.  Interesting enough, the  fruit JELLO was a big hit.  Everyone who tried it found it fruity and refreshing. (Yes, this was the one thing on the menu that we have imported from the States - I receive it in care packages or from friends traveling back from the US).

Overall it was a marvelous Thanksgiving.  Yes, not exactly the same as we would have done in the States and yes, we all missed our  American extended family. We thought about them often this weekend.  The girl's definitely had their melancholy moments reminiscing about past memories. We laughed, smiled and felt sad as we recalled those memories of past Thanksgivings.  These are the times when living so far away takes it toll. These special holidays that hold such precious family value.

I know that's why it's important to me to keep celebrating our American culture and create new and special memories as we live here in France.  We feel so lucky that our friends have joined us for 2 years now.  They are so touched to be included in our American tradition and appreciate our American dishes. They have become good friends and it's so nice to have such beautiful magical evenings and create new memories. Here's hoping those of you who celebrated Thanksgiving enjoyed your long weekend too! 

Our Thanksgivng table...yes, that's me...photo courtesy of my husband.